Frequently Asked Questions

Yes. Ministering Hands LLC is a state-certified Pool & Spa Contractor (License #CPC1459392). Unlike a 'pool service' license which is limited to cleaning, our CPC license authorizes us to build, renovate, repair equipment, and perform structural work statewide.

For weekly maintenance routes, we strictly serve Indian River County (Vero Beach, Sebastian, Fellsmere). For construction, renovations, and major equipment repairs, we serve the entire State of Florida.

Yes. We offer free estimates for repairs, renovations, equipment installs, and new construction. For weekly maintenance, we can often give a quote over the phone using satellite imagery to size your pool.

Absolutely. We carry comprehensive General Liability and Workers' Compensation insurance to protect both our team and your property.

Yes. We are licensed for commercial pool construction, repair, and maintenance. We understand the specific DOH (Dept of Health) requirements for commercial bodies of water.

Yes. We offer comprehensive pre-purchase pool inspections. We check the equipment, structural integrity, surfaces, and safety features to give you a clear picture of what you are buying.

We work with third-party lenders for major construction and renovation projects. Ask us during your consultation for current options.

White Glove is our all-inclusive premium service. It includes weekly cleaning, ALL chemicals (specialty enzymes, phosphates, salt, tabs, acid), filter cleaning, proactive O-ring lubrication, and priority storm preparation. You pay one flat rate and never worry about the pool.

No. We operate on a month-to-month basis. We earn your business every week. We just ask for 30 days' notice if you decide to cancel.

Yes. We offer a 'Green-to-Clean' service. Depending on the severity, this may involve heavy chemical treatment ('shocking'), floccing and vacuuming to waste, or draining and acid washing the surface.

Typically 3 to 5 visits over a 7-10 day period. The filter often needs to be cleaned multiple times during the process.

Cloudy water can be caused by poor filtration, low chlorine, high pH, or early algae growth. We will test your water and inspect your filter to diagnose the root cause.

Yes. For weekly clients, filter cleaning is done on a schedule (usually monthly or quarterly depending on pressure). For one-time clients, we offer filter cleaning as a service call.

Typically pools are only drained if the Stabilizer (CYA) or Calcium Hardness levels get too high to manage chemically, or for repairs. Never drain your pool yourself without consulting a pro, as high groundwater can potentially cause shell damage. Draining and refilling every few years is recommeded to reduce TDS

Yes, we specialize in saltwater pools. We monitor salt levels and inspect the salt cell for calcium buildup regularly.

Yes. We offer temporary 'vacation watch' services to ensure your pool stays blue and the water level stays safe while you are away.

Yes, we service both attached spas and standalone portable spas.

This is usually the motor bearings failing. It often happens after a seal leak allows water into the motor. We can replace the motor, but we often recommend upgrading to a quiet Variable Speed Pump.

The capacitor may be blown, or the impeller might be jammed with debris. We can diagnose and repair this quickly.

Perform the 'Bucket Test'. Fill a bucket with pool water, place it on a step, and mark the water level inside and outside. If the pool drops faster than the bucket over 24 hours, you have a leak.

Yes. We use specialized electronic listening devices and pressure testing equipment to pinpoint leaks in plumbing, lights, skimmers, or the shell.

Yes. We can replace the bulb if it's an older incandescent fixture, but we highly recommend upgrading to a sealed LED fixture for safety and energy efficiency.

Common issues include a bad pressure switch, rodent damage to wires, or a failed control board. We troubleshoot all major brands (Pentair, Hayward, Jandy, Raypak).

This indicates a suction-side air leak. It's usually a bad O-ring on the pump lid, a loose union, or a leak in the plumbing before the pump.

This is a check valve failure. The water is draining back into the pool through the return lines. We can replace the check valve internals.

Check the filter screen in the wall fitting and empty the pump basket. If that doesn't work, the cleaner may need a tune-up kit (tires, bearings, or diaphragm).

Yes. We can inject epoxy for minor cracks or perform a full skimmer replacement, which involves cutting the deck and plumbing in a new unit.

This usually means you have a torn grid or a cracked manifold inside the filter. We will disassemble it and replace the broken parts.

We can replace mechanical Intermatic timers or upgrade you to a digital automation system.

Yes. We perform complete equipment pad relocations. This involves extending plumbing and electrical to a new location to reduce noise or free up deck space.

A VSP allows the motor to run at lower speeds for filtration, which consumes up to 90% less electricity than a single-speed pump. It is much quieter and pays for itself in energy savings.

Salt systems provide softer feeling water and eliminate the need to buy chlorine tabs. The 'cell' turns salt into pure chlorine. We highly recommend them for daily maintenance ease.

Yes. We install pool automation systems (like Pentair IntelliCenter or Hayward OmniLogic) that let you control pumps, lights, heaters, and water features from an app anywhere in the world.

Gas heaters heat fast and work in any weather but are expensive to run. Heat pumps work like reverse air conditioners—they are very efficient and cheap to run, but rely on ambient air temperature (usually need 50°F+).

Yes. These are 'secondary sanitizers' that kill bacteria and viruses that chlorine might miss (like Crypto). They allow you to run a lower chlorine level for a better swimming experience.

Yes. In Florida summers, pools can get like bathwater. We install Heat/Cool pumps that can cool your pool down to a refreshing temperature in August.

Electric robotic cleaners run independently of your pool pump. They are energy efficient and scrub the tile line. We recommend them over old-style suction cleaners.

Yes, we can retro-fit water features, deck jets, and waterfalls, though it may require some deck modification and additional plumbing.

Yes. We install ADA-compliant handrails and safety rails. We can core-drill into existing decks to add them securely.

Typically 12-16 weeks from permit approval to swimming, weather permitting. Complex features or supply chain issues can extend this.

Gunite (or shotcrete) is a concrete mixture sprayed over a rebar framework. It allows for completely custom shapes and extreme durability.

Yes. We offer several finishes including standard marcite, quartz, and pebble finishes. Pebble is the most durable and comes in many beautiful colors.

Yes. If it's just a few, we can re-set them. If the bond beam (concrete behind the tile) is cracked, we may need to perform a structural repair before re-tiling.

Yes. This is a major renovation that involves shooting new concrete inside the existing shell. It's a popular upgrade during resurfacing projects.

Yes. We install travertine, brick, and concrete pavers. We can overlay your existing concrete deck or rip it out and start fresh.

Yes. We design and build custom outdoor kitchens, BBQ islands, and pergolas to complete your backyard oasis.

Yes. We build commercial pools for hotels, condos, and community centers, adhering to strict Florida Building Code and DOH Chapter 64E-9 regulations.

Yes, we can build a concrete spillover spa connected to your pool, or install a standalone fiberglass spa integrated into the deck.

It is a design where one edge of the pool is slightly lower, allowing water to flow over into a catch basin, creating the illusion that the water extends to the horizon.

Yes. We are authorized installers for major fiberglass shell manufacturers.

Fiberglass pools are faster to install (often 3-4 weeks), have a smoother non-porous surface that uses fewer chemicals, and require no resurfacing.

Any pool can float if not managed correctly, but fiberglass is lighter. We install a hydrostatic valve and a dewatering system (sump pipe) to prevent this.

Not necessarily. High-quality fiberglass shells are comparable in price to concrete, but you save money long-term on maintenance and resurfacing costs.

Modern fiberglass pools can last 30+ years with proper care. The gel coat finish is extremely durable.

NO! Never empty your pool before a storm. The water weight holds the pool in the ground. Without it, groundwater pressure can lift the entire pool out of the earth.

Lower it by 6-12 inches, but no lower than the bottom of the skimmer. You want room for rain, but enough weight to keep the pool stable.

We do NOT recommend this. Furniture can damage the pool finish (especially vinyl or fiberglass), and rust stains from metal furniture are very hard to remove.

Turn off all power to the pool equipment at the main circuit breaker. If possible, wrap the pump motor in a heavy tarp or plastic to protect it from driving rain.

If you have a cartridge or sand filter with a waste line, you can use the pump to drain it. If not, you may need a submersible pump. We offer emergency drain-down services.

Florida law requires at least one safety feature: a 4-foot fence with self-latching gates, approved pool cover, window/door alarms leading to the pool, or self-closing/latching doors.

Yes. We install removable mesh safety fences (Baby Guard style) which are excellent for protecting children and pets.

Safety Vacuum Release System. It shuts off the pump instantly if it detects a blockage (like a person trapped on a drain). It is required on many commercial pools and single-drain residential pools.

Stop swimming immediately. This is an entrapment hazard. We must replace it with a VGB-compliant safety drain cover.

In Florida summers, 8-10 hours a day. In winter, 6-8 hours. Variable speed pumps should run longer (12-24 hours) at lower speeds for best efficiency.

pH measures acidity. Ideal is 7.4-7.6. If pH is too high, chlorine doesn't work well (algae grows). If pH is too low, the water becomes acidic and eats your heater and plaster.

Alkalinity acts as a buffer for pH. It keeps the pH stable. Ideal range is 80-120 ppm. If it's too low, pH bounces wildy.

It's sunscreen for your chlorine. Without it, the sun burns off chlorine in hours. Ideal range is 30-50 ppm. If it gets too high (100+), it locks the chlorine so it can't kill algae.

Turn off the salt cell. Pour pool-grade salt directly into the deep end and brush until dissolved. Wait 24 hours before turning the salt cell back on.

Yes, in a pinch. Regular unscented bleach is just weak sodium hypochlorite (around 6%). Pool liquid chlorine is 10-12%. Just don't use 'splashless' or scented versions.

The filter is dirty. Backwash (if sand/DE) or clean the cartridges. A rule of thumb: clean filter when pressure rises 10 PSI above clean starting pressure.

Check the pump basket for leaves. If the pump is starving for water (clogged basket or skimmer), pressure drops.

Turn off pump. Open lid. Fill basket with water from hose or bucket. Replace lid tightly. Turn pump on. It may take a minute to catch prime.

Balance Alkalinity first, then pH, then Chlorine. Add Calcium and Stabilizer last. Never mix chemicals together in a bucket.

We send digital invoices via email/text. You can pay securely online via Credit Card or ACH bank transfer. We also accept checks.

Monthly maintenance is billed in arrears (at the end of the month) or in advance depending on your plan. Repairs are due upon completion. Large construction jobs have a draw schedule.

On our White Glove plan, NO. Everything is included. On basic chemical plans, filter cleans and specialty chemicals (Stabilizer, Phosphate remover) may be an extra annual charge.

We cover normal chemical usage. If a leak causes excessive chemical loss, we will alert you. You are responsible for fixing the leak, and we may charge for the extra salt/chemicals needed to re-balance the pool after refilling.

Yes. We offer a 1-year workmanship warranty on all repairs. Equipment comes with the manufacturer's warranty (typically 1-3 years depending on the brand).

Generally, no. Home warranty companies often require the cheapest fix possible. We prefer to do the job right with high-quality OEM parts. We can work directly with you, and you can seek reimbursement from them if your policy allows.

A flashing red 'Check Salt' light usually means low salt (below 2600 ppm), cold water (below 52°F), or a dirty cell. If the 'Flow' light is red, the flow switch is likely bad or the pump is running too slow.

'LO' stands for Limit Open. It often means the heater is overheating because the water flow is too low (dirty filter) or the bypass valve is open. It can also be a bad high-limit switch.

This is common in Florida summers. The drive on top of the motor is overheating. Ensure the fan on top isn't blocked by leaves. If it persists, the drive may need replacement.

This is called 'thermal migration' or check valve failure. The check valve on the return side isn't sealing, allowing water to siphon back into the lower body of water (the pool).

This is a safety mechanism. It almost always means water has entered the light fixture housing or the niche conduit. DO NOT reset it and swim. It needs a licensed inspection immediately.

If you see a lot of air in the lid, you have a suction side air leak. Check the pump lid O-ring, the drain plug O-rings, or the threaded fitting where the pipe enters the pump.

The grids are likely clogged with oil or minerals that backwashing can't remove. The filter needs to be taken apart and the grids soaked in a degreaser or acid solution, or replaced.

This happens when the hose swivels are seized up or the water is too cold (making the hose stiff). Lay the hose out straight in the sun for a few hours to reset its memory.

This is often a blown fuse on the board or a transformer failure. On newer systems, it could be a bad outdoor transceiver. We can test voltage to pinpoint the failure.

If you have a sand filter, a lateral (the fingers at the bottom of the tank) is likely cracked. The entire sand bed needs to be scooped out to replace the lateral assembly.

That is Copper Cyanurate. It happens when you have high Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer) AND high Copper (from algaecides or heater corrosion). We have to lower the CYA and use a metal sequestrant.

Try the 'Vitamin C Test'. Hold a Vitamin C tablet on the stain. If it vanishes in seconds, it's iron (rust). If not, brush it. If it poofs away, it's algae. If neither, it might be an organic stain.

Phosphates are algae food. If they are over 500ppb, we use a Phosphate Remover (like Orenda PR-10,000). Note: This WILL cloud your pool up for 24-48 hours and clog your filter, so plan to clean the filter afterwards.

Surprisingly, burning eyes usually means pH is wrong or you have 'chloramines' (used up chlorine). It often means you need MORE chlorine to break down the waste, not less.

Shocking means raising the chlorine level to 'Breakpoints' (usually 10x the combined chlorine level) to oxidize waste. You should shock weekly in summer or after heavy rain/parties.

Only if you degrease it first! If you soak an oily filter in acid, you 'bake' the oils into the fabric permanently. Soak in filter cleaner/degreaser first, THEN acid wash if needed for minerals.

It's not Chlorine! It's Copper. Copper is dissolved in the water (from cheap algaecides or heater erosion) and sticks to hair proteins. A metal sequestrant helps prevent this.

Water wants to be satisfied. If it doesn't have enough calcium (too soft), it will eat it out of your pool shell (etching) or grout. If it has too much, it deposits scale. We keep it between 200-400 ppm.

We advise against it. When the pump turns off, the tablets keep dissolving, creating a highly acidic soup. When the pump turns on, that acid hits your pump and heater, eating the copper and seals.

A strong 'chlorine smell' is actually Chloramines (bad stuff). A clean, well-balanced pool has almost no smell. A strong smell means the pool needs to be shocked to burn off the waste.

Yes. We need a current survey to locate easements, setbacks, and property lines. If you don't have one, we can refer you to a surveyor.

Generally, the water's edge must be at least 10 feet from the rear and side property lines, though this varies by zoning and specific subdivision rules. We handle all permitting and zoning checks.

It is a major construction site. We use heavy machinery (excavators, bobcats). The access path will act as a temporary road. We do a final grade at the end, but you may need to budget for re-sodding the access area.

Florida has a high water table. If we hit water, we use 'well points'—a dewatering system that sucks the water out of the ground 24/7 while we shoot the concrete shell.

Usually the next day! But you cannot turn on the heater or salt system for 28-30 days while the plaster cures. We will brush the pool daily for the first week to smooth it out.

Yes. We have a showroom with hundreds of samples of waterline tile, travertine pavers, and plaster finishes (stonescapes, quartz, glass beads).

Yes. By law, once water goes in the pool, a safety barrier must be up. We often use temporary orange construction fencing until your permanent fence or screen enclosure is installed.

It is difficult but possible. Usually, we have to remove sections of the screen to get equipment in. It is often cheaper/easier to remove the cage and build a new one tailored to the new pool shape.

The bond beam is the top 12 inches of the pool wall that is thickened and reinforced with extra steel. It supports the coping and tile. Cracks here are serious and need structural staples to fix.

Yes. We are full-service. We prepare the engineering, submit the application to the building department, and meet the inspectors for all required inspections.

A single-speed pump costs about $50-$80/month to run. A VSP running low-and-slow can cost $10-$15/month. It usually pays for itself in under 2 years.

Yes. An old incandescent bulb uses 300-500 watts. An LED uses 20-40 watts. Plus, they last 10x longer and can change colors.

Yes. 70% of heat loss is evaporation. A solar blanket stops evaporation, keeping the heat in and reducing chemical usage. However, in Florida, they can be a hassle to take on/off daily.

In Florida, electric Heat Pumps are far cheaper to operate (approx $1.00 - $1.50 per hour) compared to Propane/Gas ($4.00 - $6.00 per hour). Gas is only better for 'on-demand' heating (e.g., heating a spa in 20 mins).

We plumb all new equipment pads with 2-inch or 2.5-inch PVC. Larger pipe means less friction, which means the pump doesn't have to work as hard.

Yes. We offer 'bead blasting' (like sandblasting but with gentle media like salt or glass beads) to strip the white calcium line off the tile without damaging the glaze.

While we are pool contractors, not screen guys, we can replace individual panels if we are already on-site for a job. For full rescreening, we refer trusted partners.

Yes. We install heat/cool pumps (like the Pentair UltraTemp or AquaCal). They can heat in winter and chill the pool in summer to keep it refreshing.

Yes. We can dive the pool to replace main drain covers, patch vinyl liners, or fix structural cracks without draining the water (saving you $$ on water bills).

No, that is essentially building a new pool. However, we can renovate vinyl pools: new liner, new polymer steps, steel walls, and coping.

Yes! It is one of our most popular upgrades. We plumb the cell into your existing return line and add the power center. You can be swimming in saltwater in under 2 hours.

The anchor socket in the deck is likely corroded. We can core-drill a new hole and install a new high-impact anchor, or use a surface-mount anchor if core drilling isn't an option.

Love bugs are highly acidic. If they pile up in the pool or skimmer, their decay creates high phosphate levels. Increase chlorine and clean skimmers daily during May/September.

Yes! Moving water doesn't freeze easily. Most modern automation has 'Freeze Protection' that turns the pump on automatically when air temps drop below 38°F.

Yes. Rain is acidic and dilutes the water. More importantly, it washes pollen, dust, and roof runoff into the pool, which consumes your chlorine.

Lightning converts atmospheric nitrogen into nitrates (fertilizer for algae). Combined with the rain washing in spores, a storm is the perfect algae storm. Shock immediately after heavy storms.

No, but you should turn it on for 10 minutes once a month. This prevents spiders/rodents from nesting in the burner tray and keeps the internal valves from seizing up.

Florida DOH 64E-9 requires daily testing of pH and Chlorine. These must be recorded in a specific log book and kept on-site for inspection.

Yes. They often require NSF-50 rated pumps and filters, flow meters, and redundant safety vacuum release systems (SVRS) that residential pools don't strictly mandate.

Yes. If your HOA pool was shut down or cited by the Health Department, we prioritize these calls to correct the violation (flow rates, safety signs, chemical balance) and get you reopened.

Yes. We install battery-powered and water-powered ADA lifts required for commercial hospitality pools.

It is calculated based on surface area. Generally 1 person per 5 gallons of filtration rate per minute. We can calculate this for your signage requirements.

Filling in a pool is expensive ($10k+) and lowers property value. Renovation is usually a better investment. We can inspect it to tell you if the 'bones' (shell/plumbing) are good.

Usually the shell (structural cracks) or the underground plumbing (leaks under the deck). Equipment is relatively easy to swap; concrete and pipes are hard.

Yes, it is a safety risk. The bonding wire connects all metal parts (ladder, light, pump) to create an equipotential grid, preventing electrical shock. We can retrofit a bonding loop.

Look for tears in the corners, fading/bleaching, or if the liner has become brittle and 'crunchy'. If it's pulling out of the track at the top, it might just need to be tucked back in with heat.

Stop the pump immediately. Glass is invisible in water. Do not vacuum it (it will shred your filter). The pool must be drained and vacuumed with a shop vac, or professionally cleaned by a diver.

One dog is equal to roughly 50 people in terms of bacteria and oils. You need to increase chlorine levels afterwards and check the skimmer for fur, which clogs pumps quickly.

Fertilizer contains nitrates (algae super-food) and often iron (rust stains). Vacuum it to waste immediately (bypass the filter). If it dissolves, you may need to drain a portion of the water to lower nitrate levels.

Wear gloves. Remove and dispose of it. Shock the pool with chlorine immediately to kill any bacteria. Run the pump for 24 hours.

Solid waste: Remove it, shock with chlorine, run filter 8 hours. Diarrhea (liquid): This is high risk for Crypto. You must raise chlorine to 20ppm and hold it there for 12.75 hours (or equivalent CT value) per CDC guidelines.

Turn off the breaker immediately. That is likely the motor windings melting or a capacitor failure. It is a fire hazard. Call us for a motor replacement.

Do not run the pump if you can't see the bottom (safety hazard). Floc the pool (drop the dirt to the floor), then vacuum to waste. Do not try to filter mud; it will ruin your cartridges.

Don't swim. Sunlight will burn it off naturally in 24-48 hours. If you need to swim sooner, we can add a chlorine neutralizer (Sodium Thiosulfate), but use sparingly.

Dangerous. pH will crash. The water will become corrosive. Add Sodium Bicarbonate (Soda Ash or Baking Soda) immediately to bring pH back up to 7.4. Run the pump continuously.

If wet, pressure wash immediately. If dry, do not use paint thinner (it eats the sealer). You may need to use a specialized stripper or flip the pavers if possible.

This just means the pump lost power recently. Press the 'Reset' button to clear it. If it happens while the pump is running, check your voltage supply.

The pump tried to pull water but couldn't. Check: Is the water level low? Is the skimmer weir door stuck? Is the basket lid loose?

This is often a reminder timer. Hold the diagnostic button for 3 seconds to reset. If it comes back, the cell is actually dirty or dying.

The outdoor antenna lost wifi connection. Reset your home router. If that fails, toggle the breaker to the pool panel. The antenna may be too far from the router.

The flame rolled out of the fire box. This usually means the heat exchanger is sooted up (poor combustion) or high wind blew the exhaust back down. Needs professional cleaning.

Sensor failure. Usually the temperature sensor is bad or the wire was chewed by a rodent. Cheap fix.

The motor tried to spin but couldn't. The impeller is likely jammed with a rock or seed pod. We need to open the pump and clear the blockage.

Check the backup valve (the acorn shape thing on the hose). If it's stuck in 'open' mode, the cleaner just floats. Also check the belt inside the unit; they snap often.

The flow switch is failing or the cell plates are coated in calcium. If acid washing the cell doesn't fix it, the cell is likely dead (lifespan is 3-5 years).

Turn the light switch off for 10 seconds, then on. If it stays stuck, the internal controller in the light fixture has failed. The fixture usually needs replacement.

LSI is the true measure of water balance. It calculates pH, Temp, Calcium, Alkalinity, Cyanuric Acid, and TDS. If LSI is below -0.3, water eats concrete. If above +0.3, it deposits scale.

Yes! Borates (Borax) stabilize pH and make the water feel silky. They also prevent algae. We recommend maintaining 30-50 ppm of Borates.

It's a myth, but refers to two things: 1) High Cyanuric Acid (>100ppm) making chlorine ineffective. 2) High Combined Chlorine (chloramines) demanding a massive shock to break apart.

TDS is everything dissolved in the water (salt, calcium, old chemicals, dust). If TDS gets too high (usually >1500ppm over your tap water baseline), chemicals stop working effectively. The fix is draining.

New plaster rises for a year. Salt cells also naturally raise pH (via turbulence and hydrogen gas generation). High aeration (spillways, bubblers) also raises pH. You need regular acid additions.

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) is amazing for Iron stains. It lifts them instantly. However, chlorine eats Ascorbic Acid, so you have to re-balance carefully or the stain comes back.

Enzymes (like Orenda CV-600) digest non-living organics (suntan lotion, body oils, pollen). This frees up your chlorine to focus on killing bacteria. It prevents the 'scum line' on tile.

Fiberglass doesn't need calcium for structure (unlike concrete). However, we still keep some calcium to prevent the water from foaming and to protect heater exchangers.

OTO (yellow drops) only measures Total Chlorine (good + bad chlorine). DPD (pink powder/drops) measures Free Chlorine (the good stuff). Always use DPD or a digital tester.

The only reliable way is to drain water and refill. There are 'reducers' on the market, but they are expensive and rarely work well.

Polished Hydrazzo or a high-quality Quartz finish. Pebble finishes are more durable but have a texture (like an orange peel). Glass bead finishes are very smooth and luxurious.

Standard Marcite (white plaster) lasts 7-10 years. Pebble finishes (like StoneScapes) last 15-20+ years and are much more resistant to chemical staining.

The water color comes from the finish color + depth + sky reflection. White finish = Light Blue water. Black/Grey finish = Deep Blue/Green water. Tan finish = Teal/Aqua water.

Travertine or artistic pavers. Avoid soft limestone or poured cantilever concrete, as salt can degrade them over time if not sealed properly.

Yes, but it requires a specialized installer and specific thin-set mortar. Glass tile expands/contracts differently than ceramic. If installed wrong, it cracks.

That white crust is Calcium Carbonate. It happens when pH or Calcium is too high. We can blast it off, but water balance prevents it from returning.

This is normal hydration of the cement, called 'mottling'. It gives the pool a natural look. If it's extreme, it might be a scale issue that an acid wash can even out.

Yes! There are phosphorescent tiles that absorb sun all day and glow soft blue or green at night. They are great for marking step edges.

A sloped entry that goes from dry deck to water gradually, like a beach. It requires a lot of space to do correctly.

Yes. A black or dark blue finish absorbs sunlight and can make the pool 3-5 degrees warmer than a white pool.

A Variable Speed Pump (VSP) running at low RPMs (e.g., 1200 RPM) uses less energy than a 100-watt light bulb.

Yes. There are solar pool pumps (DC powered), or you can tie your standard VSP into your home's solar grid. We also install solar heating panels.

Yes. DE and Sand filters require 'backwashing', which wastes hundreds of gallons of treated water. Cartridge filters are cleaned with a hose, wasting very little water.

Install an Ozone or UV system. They kill 99.9% of bacteria, allowing you to run a very low chlorine level (0.5 ppm) safely.

Yes. Evaporation is the #1 loss of heat and water. A cover stops 95% of evaporation.

Not completely. Even 'salt' pools use chlorine. There are 'mineral' systems (MagnaPool) or Oxygen systems, but in Florida heat, you almost always need a trace of halogen (chlorine/bromine) for safety.

Generally no. It contains chlorine, salt, and DE powder which kills grass. It must be disposed of according to local code (usually on your own lawn, not the storm drain).

The Virginia Graeme Baker Pool & Spa Safety Act. It requires all drain covers to be anti-entrapment certified to prevent body/hair suction entrapment.

Yes. Florida code 64E-9 requires a shower on the pool deck for rinsing off before entry.

Many: No Diving, Bather Load, CPR instructions, 911 Emergency, Rules, Shower Before Entering, and Do Not Swallow Water.

Yes. An emergency 911 landline (or dedicated cellular box) must be accessible and functioning at all times on the pool deck.

If the pool is open at night, the deck and water must meet specific foot-candle brightness requirements. If not, 'Pool Closed at Dusk' signs must be posted.

Whenever the surface becomes pitted, cracked, or abrasive (typically 10-15 years). A rough surface harbors bacteria and is a DOH violation.

Oxidation Reduction Potential. It's an automated computer that senses chlorine effectiveness and automatically feeds acid and chlorine to keep the water perfect. Required on many commercial pools.

State code prohibits animals in public pools (except service animals on the deck). They cannot enter the water.

If the pool has less than 300 linear feet of wall, you need one means of access (usually a lift or sloped entry). Larger pools need two.

You must close the pool immediately, log the incident, and follow the CDC fecal incident response protocol before reopening.

You can install a 'Frog Log' (a little ramp) that lets them climb out before they get sucked into the skimmer.

Bugs usually mean you have algae (even if you can't see it yet), which they eat. Shock the pool to kill their food source, and the bugs will leave.

You can, but well water in Vero Beach is often high in iron and tannins (brown tea color). You will spend a lot on metal sequestrants. City water is safer.

In Florida, expect 1/4 inch per day. If it's more than that, or you are adding water daily, you likely have a leak.

Heat rises. Cold water sinks. Without the pump running to circulate, the water stratifies. Your main drain pulls cold water from the bottom to mix it.

Yes! Sodium Bicarbonate is Sodium Bicarbonate. Costco bags are great for raising Alkalinity.

Most people prefer 84°F - 88°F. Competitive swimmers like it cooler (78°F - 80°F). Seniors often prefer 88°F - 90°F.

Be careful. Regular paint makes the deck like an ice rink when wet. You must use an acrylic deck stain with 'shark grip' (anti-slip sand) additive.

The lens gasket failed. It needs to be pulled out and resealed. Do not turn it on; the bulb will blow if hot glass touches cool water.

A mixture of baking soda and water on a scrub pad works great. For stubborn calcium, use a pumice stone (keep it wet so you don't scratch the tile).